Kavala's Library - A Collection Of Books, Notes, & Ledgers

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 avala is starting to amass a collection of books for a library in Sanctuary. She has either purchased them or created them herself by bringing home books from the Riverfall library and copying parts of them into her own manuscripts a long with notes from her own personal experiences. As she grows the library will grow. In addition to her own books, she must maintain the books of Sanctuary itself - its operating expenses, employees, and most importantly its stud book for its horses. Later, when they have dogs available and have built a kennels that too will be added in. Until then, this is simply a place Kavala keeps notes - records - ledgers and quantifies what she knows. . Sanctuary Studbook Philtering Poisons Cooking Herbalism Medicine Weapons .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 Employees (Salary per Day) Manager (10 GM) : Kavala (Healer, Groom, Trainer, Breeder) Assistant (5 GM) : Akela (Defense, Forge, Groom) Assistant (5 GM) : Raiha (Mews, Groom, Healer) Assistant (5 GM) : TBA (Cook, Groom, Cleaning) Expenses : TBA .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 . Kavala Owns Strider - 1 (Windsong - Stallion) Sanctuary Owns Ekytol Desertbred – 2 (2 mares) Sungold – 7 (7 mares) Seme – 1 (Sivak - Stallion) Zavian – 2 (2 mares) Frostmarch – 2 (2 mares) Gildling – 2 (2 mares) Strider – 2 (2 mares) Transactions All pregnant mares foaled out this year - 10 mares. 1 non surviving foal. = 9 foals 2 Sungold foals traded for forge items 1 Gilding foal traded for roof cistern total = 5 foals remaining all mares bred back Value: ~1k for Riverfall - almost halfway to paying off original horse purchase price of 2,500k. .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 WIP Glassware and its use Kavala knows: Beakers: No great philtering lab would be complete without them. Beakers are used to do routine measuring and mixing within the confines of the lab. You can use them to measure volumes to within a 10% accurancy. Most beakers are made from glass. Flat bottoms allow for safe resting either on a table while the spout makes pouring easy. Because of their openness, beakers are easy to clean. Boiling Tubes: These are a special variety of test tube that can be made specifically for eating samples to a high enough temperature to boil. These are thick-walled glass tubes that are usually about half again or twice as large as an average test tube. You can rest the walls in a flame and not worry about the glass bubbling or melting. Buchner Flasks: These vacuum flasks, filter flasks, side-arm flasks, or kitasato flasks are thick walled flasks that are slightly larger at the bottom than the top which has a short glas tube and hose barb on its neck. These allow the philerer or poisoner to attach the flask to a closed sytem. Buchner Funnel: A funnel that is placed at the top of a buchner flask so that the vacuum may be used to separate or dry a sample. Burets or Burettes: Are cylinders which are used when it is necessary to dispense a small measured volume of liquid. They are large graduated glass tubes with a stopcock that allows a drop by drop dispensing when gently opened or closed. They can be used to calibrate volumes of other pieces of glassware, such as graduated cylinders. Cold Finger: a piece of glassware used to form a cold surface. This is a necessary piece of glassware when using a sublimation procedure. Condenser: a piece of glassware that is used to cool hot liquids or vapors which normally consists of a tube within a tube. Crucible: a cup-shaped piece of laboratory glassware that is used to hold samples which are to be heated at high temperatures. These may or may not include lids and might vary in shape or size considerably. Erlenmeyer Flasks: Flasks used to measure, mix, and store liquids. These are the most common and thus most useful pieces of laboratory equipment because of their size and shape. They are thickly lined glass so they can be heated over flame. The tops can be sealed with corks, paraffin, or glass stoppers. Evaporating Dish: A ceramic or glass dish used to heat and evaporate liquids. The deep dishes had a pour spout on one end. Florence Flask: This is a true round bottom flask that has thick walls capable of withstanding drastic temperature changes in brief periods of time. Funnel: A conical piece of glassware that terminates in a narrow tube. This piece of glassware is used to transfer substances into containers that have narrow mouths. Sometimes they are called conical measures and are marked with lines that allow measurements. Glass Bottles: These are bottles with glass stoppers that are used to stock solutions of chemicals. Most of these bottles are labeled and used for only one chemical and never used for another. Graduated Cylinders: These are glass cylinders that are used to measure volumes accurately. They can be known to calculate density if something’s weight is known. Pipets: Sometimes known as Pipettes, these glass droppers are calibrated to deliver a specific volume. They can be marked like graduated cylinders or lined to deliver only the same volume again and again. Pcynometer: Sometimes called specific gravity bottles are flasks with stoppers that have capillary tubes through it which allows air bubbles to escape. These bottles allow for the accurate measurement of density. Retort: A common piece of glassware that is used for distillation or dry distillation. A retort is a spherical glass vessel that has a downward bending kneck which acts as a condenser all in one. Round Bottom Flask: Like the name implies, these flasks have a round bottom with the end of the neck typically made of conical ground glass joints. These flasks are flattened dorsally/vertically and can comfortably rest on a flat surface. This is a great flask for heating or boiling a sample. Separatory Funnels: Funnels used to dispense liquid into other containers, usually as part of an extraction process. They are made of glass that can be set up on a ring stand that supports them aloft. Separatory funnels are open at the top to allow ease of adding liquid to them, though they can be stoppered or corked if necessary. Sloping sides lead down to a stopcock that allows perfect dispensing. These are normally used when the flow needs to be controlled but not the measurement of the liquid itself. Stopcock: This is a plug with a handle that fits into a corresponding female joint on a flask or funnel that allows a drop by drop measurement of liquid to be allowed to move through it or twisted to stop. Test Tubes: These are round bottom cylinders made of thick glass so they can resist breaking via temperature changes or chemical reactions. Sometimes these are called culture tubes, though test tubes have lips and culture tubes do not. Thistle Tube: These are pieces of glassware that consist of long tubes with a reservoir and funnel like opening at one end. These are used to add liquid through a stopper to an existing apparatus. Volumetric Flask: These are flasks used to accurately prepare solutions for philtering or poison making. These glassware pieces are characterized by a long neck with a line for measuring a specific volume. They may have round or flat bottoms, and again are made of thick glass to withstand heat. Watch Glasses: These are multiple sized concave dishes that have a variety of uses. They serve as lids for flasks and beakers. They can hold samples for observation. They can evaporate liquid off samples as well. .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 WIP .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 WIP .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 WIP .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 WIP .

[Kavala]

Modified Feb 5, 2010 WIP WIP WIP .

[Kavala]

Modified April 27, 2010 WIP Stem or Outline Stitch : To work the stem stitch bring the thread to the front at the left edge of your drawn line. With the thread below your needle, take the needle to the back about ¼ inch to the right and re-emerge at the point where your thread began. Pull the thread through. Repeat and continue along the line, keeping the tension even and the stitches the same length. Stitches that are close together make a tight line, ones that are farther away make a looser line. When you come to the end of the line, take the thread to the back for the last stitch but don’t re-emerge. Secure the thread with tiny back stitches or weave it back through the line before clipping any excess thread. On both of these stitches you’ll see an even row of backstitch on the wrong side of the material. For the outline stitch, do the same thing but keep the thread above the needle. Blanket Stitch : To start bring your thread to the front. Take the needle to the back about ¼ inch away (diagonally) and come down so the stitch is aligned along the bottom. Making sure your thread loops under the needle, pull it through until it lies tightly against the emerging thread. Take the needle to the back again and emerge ¼ inch away from the first stitch. Continue along until you’ve reached your desired length. You'll see that each new stitch secures and holds the loop of the previous stitch. To finish, take a small stitch to the back to secure the last loop or.... To make a blanket stitch edge for a tea towel, start on the back side by bringing your thread under the hem and through the fold. (If you'll be working from left to right on the front, start at the far right on the back.) Turn the towel over and work your line of stitches along the edge. I used a towel that was already hemmed for these pictures but you could use this stitch to decorate and hem the towel at the same time. Just make sure that you catch the folded edge on the back with your stitches. When you come to the end, take your thread to the back over the last loop to secure it. Bring your needle back through the fold to hide the ending and knot it. Braid Stitch : Start by bringing your thread to the front on the bottom line. Then make a loop like this (first loop the thread to the left, then flip the loop over from right to left). This is an awkward motion and didn't come automatically to me for some time. Holding the loop with your thumb (not shown in photo), take a long vertical stitch from the top line to the bottom. Keep the threads out of the way exactly as shown. Now loop the working thread from right to left under the tip of the needle. Pull the loop tightly around the needle. Pull the thread through with a downward motion, holding the loop down lightly with your thumb. Be a little careful here to not pull too tightly. There's nothing holding the top loop, it's just lying alongside that top thread. If you pull too much it makes a real mess (trust me on this one). Make a second loop like you did in the first step. Again insert the needle through the loop, making a stitch from the top to the bottom line. Loop the thread under the needle as you did before. Pull the thread through to complete the second stitch. Continue working until you reach the end of your line. Chicken Scratching : Chicken scratch embroidery is a form of cross-stitch that is used to work designs into patterns that normally made them look like lace on checks. But it could be manipulated to be filler as well if the embroiderer was more free form in thier thinking. The technique uses five simple stitches—the cross-stitch, the double cross stitch, the straight running stitch, the whipped straight stitch, and the woven circle stitch. They were fairly easy to preform. Cross Stitch : The cross stitch is probably the oldest and best known of the embroidery stitches. It's essentially two straight stitches worked on the diagonal with one placed crosswise over the top of the other. Cross stitch is done in a row, with the first half of the stitches worked in one direction and then completed on the way back across the row. To start, bring your thread up in the space between threads in your fabric. Count up a certain number of threads (I used four) then to the right the same number. Take your needle to the back and pull the thread through. Come up again directly below where the last stitch ended. And down again diagonally at the same spacing as before. Continue until you reach the end of the row. Now, working backwards and using the holes from the first stitches as a guide for your needle, complete each cross and finish the row. Double Cross Stitch : Work a cross stitch from corner to corner in one square of the gingham. If you're using the darker color for reverse chicken scratch (in this case, red), work in the white blocks. Then work a straight cross stitch over this. Remember to do your cross stitches in the same order so all your threads go in the same direction. Running Stitch : Used for outlining projects, the running stitch is a key component of most other decorative stitches. It has two aspects - flat and twisted. It can also be used for stem-like scrolls or geometric designs. Bring your thread to the front on the right hand side of the line to be stitched. I didn't draw a line because my fabric is linen and it's easy to use the holes in the weave as a guide. Take a small stitch, skimming your needle underneath the fabric along the line. Pull your thread through, then take another stitch. Keep both the stitch length and the space in between the same each time. This is super easy when using linen—just count the same number of threads each time. At the end of the line weave your threads in at the back. And that's it. Whipped running : This is the best way to add a second color to your work and to make a great looking braided line. After you've completed a line of running stitch, change your thread color. Bring the thread to the front just below the center of the first stitch on the right hand side. Take your needle from top to bottom under the second stitch, making sure that you don't split the thread or pierce the fabric. Pull the thread through keeping the tension loose. Take the needle from top to bottom under the third stitch; pull through. Continue to the end of the line and take your thread to the back under the center of the last stitch. Woven Circle Stitch : This is the main design element in the pattern of four cross stitches to fill in the color. Bring your needle up in the same hole as the running stitch. Slip the needle under the running stitches to form a circle. Go around the circle a second time, then insert your needle in the same hole that you started from. Together these form an amazingly beautiful almost lace-like patterning that can be used to fill in large areas already outlined. Coral Stitch : The Coral stitch can be used singly to outline shapes, or worked in rows spaced closely together as a filling stitch, in which case you'll want to position the knots between those in the previous row. Bring your thread to the front on the righthand side of your line and lay it along the line for a short distance, holding it in place with your thumb. Keep holding the thread and take a small stitch from just above the thread to just below it. Your thread will form a loop and your needle should stay inside that loop. Keeping your thread taut, begin to pull it through until a knot forms. Lay your thread along the line again and take another small stitch in the same way. You can space your knots at whatever distance you like, just keep them evenly spaced as you continue along the line. When you come to the end take your thread to the back and end off (weave threads into back). That's it. For a filling stitch, complete another row parallel to the first, spacing your knots so they fall in the open spaces between the knots on the first row. Then continue to alternate the knots as you fill your shape. Use a second color if you want a striped effect. Back Stitch : Back stitch is yet another stitch that can be used for outlining. Not much else to say about it, except that it's pretty simple to do. Bring your thread to the front. Take your needle to the back one stitch length to the right from where your thread emerges and reemerge on the other side at approximately the same distance. Mine is a little off, but you'll want to keep your stitches the same length. Pull your thread through, then take your needle to the back through the same hole where the first stitch ends. Reemerge on the other side at the same distance. Continue along until you reach the end of the line. Take your last stitch to the back through the hole at the end of the previous stitch and weave in the end. .